For both tangible and psychosomatic reasons, there is really nothing worse than feeling like you can’t get through the season in the middle of winter.
But instead of letting the early sunsets slowly lower my serotonin levels, I’m starting to resist the gloom and find joy in winter. I’m focusing on the things that are truly best about this time of year: not leaving the house once on a Saturday, dressing in my best après-ski look even if you’re not skiing, and eating absurd amounts of pasta – specifically, the wonderfully meaty, rich and flavorful kind of pasta topped with loads of cheese.
This recipe is just that: an extremely lamb-flavored, tomato-y sauce that tastes like a very good sweater feels. And like a very good sweater, it’s not the kind of dish I want to incorporate into my summer lifestyle, so I’m celebrating the cold weather by eating as many bowls of it as I can.
This sauce, which is ready in about 45 minutes but tastes like it took 90 minutes, isn’t technically ragu, a word that inherently means long-cooked. However, “meat sauce” doesn’t sound quite as good (or at all), so I’ll keep calling it “quick ragu” and let that qualification speak for itself.
Furthermore, since this is a very simple sauce, I strongly advise you to leave in the optional anchovies: they play an important role in complementing the flavour of the lamb, giving it a complexity that is usually achieved through a long cooking time (and for those who don’t like anchovies: no, you don’t really taste them).
If you then feel the need to spice it up a bit by adding a pinch of fennel seeds to the onions, a splash of red wine to the tomatoes, or a handful of freshly chopped herbs at the end, I won’t be offended. (The beauty of a good recipe is often its flexibility, isn’t it?)
Other ways to upgrade include mixing the meats (pork and lamb!) or serving the finished pasta with a spoonful of seasoned ricotta on top, which will surely make you wish it was winter all year long. (OK, maybe not.)
While this sauce could easily be eaten day after day over bowls of polenta or various types of pasta (thick pasta like fettuccine or pappardelle is a favorite), it also freezes well, so this seasonal treat can last you well into winter. But until then, let’s get ready for spring, so I say eat while you can.
Quick lamb ragu
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 medium brown onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Salt flakes and black pepper
A pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)
2 anchovy fillets (optional)
2 tbsp tomato paste
500g minced lamb
2 cans chopped tomatoes (400 g)
350 g cooked pasta, noodles or tubes for serving
A good piece of Parmesan or Pecorino to serve
A small handful of marjoram, oregano or thyme to serve (optional)
Method:
Step 1 Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent and completely softened, 5-8 minutes. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes and anchovies (if using) and cook for a minute or two, just to toast the spices and melt the anchovies.
step 2 Add tomato paste and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the tomato paste sticks to the bottom of the pan and caramelizes slightly (2-3 minutes).
step 3 Add lamb and season with salt and pepper. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir lamb until fat is tender and meat begins to fall apart. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until lamb is browned and sizzling in its own fat, 5–8 minutes.
Step 4 Add chopped tomatoes, stirring to remove any bits from the bottom of the pot. Fill the tomato cans with a little water and swirl to get any remaining tomatoes out, then add to the pot. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking until the sauce is thickened and incredibly flavorful, 25-30 minutes.
Step 5 Serve the sauce incorporated into the pasta and grated over it, sprinkling plenty of cheese for grating on top. If you like, you can also sprinkle a small handful of marjoram, oregano or thyme leaves on top.
For 4-6 people
Total time: 45 minutes
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